Fudge Headpaint Basics
The following are excepts from the Fudge Headpaint Manual intended to serve as basic guidelines for use. For more detailed formulation, mixing and application instructions, please refer to your Fudge Headpaint Manual or attend a class! Watch for classes on the Ed Wyse Education page.
Fudge Headpaint uses the International Color code (ICC) numbering system, which allows for easy identification and colour selection.
• The first number before the point denotes the depth of colour.
• The first number after the point denotes the primary or strongest tone/reflect of the colour.
• The second number after the point denotes the secondary or more subtle tone/reflect of the colour.
Example - 8.46 = Light Blonde depth with a dominant Copper and subtle Red tone/reflect.
If a colour is given a zero as a secondary reflect, it means that the primary tone/reflect is intensified.
Example - 5.20 = Light Brown depth with an intense Violet tone/reflect.
A colour is given two identical numbers after the point indicates that it is a very intense reflect.
Example - 7.66 = Medium Blonde depth with a pure, very intense red tone.
The Mega Lift shades are identified as 900 numbers.
Example - 901 = Mega Light Ash Blonde.
NOTE: Mega Lift colours have been designed to be used on a natural level 6 and above. This will ensure you achieve a blonde result.
A double zero prior to the number signifies a concentrate colour. These colours have been specifically designed to intensify the tone/reflect when added to all Fudge Headpaint formulations (no more that 25% of the total formula is to be used).
NOTE: When adding a concentrate colour to your Fudge Headpaint formulation, please do not exceed 25% of your total mix, e.g. 1 part Concentrate colour to 3 parts Fudge Headpaint color crème. No extra Fudge Catalyst is required in your mixture.
Example - 30 ml 6.4 (1/2 tube) Fudge Headpaint Colour Crème + 10ml (0.34oz) 004 Concentrate Crème + 45ml (1.52oz) 20 volume Fudge Catalyst).
Preliminary Patch Test:
To determine whether an allergy or hypersensitivity exists, a preliminary patch test should be performed. The following test should be made 24 hours before every application:
1. Using soap and water, wash an area about 2 cm (1 inch) in diameter on the inside of the elbow or behind the ear touching the hairline. Pat dry with cotton wool.
2. Prepare a test solution by mixing equal parts of Fudge Catalyst Peroxide with exact shade to be used.
3. Apply mixture to test area using an absorbent cotton-tipped applicator.
4. Permit the area to dry. Do not cover or disturb for 24 hours.
5. Examine the test area after 24 hours. If no reaction has occurred, proceed with hair colouring.
DO NOT USE hair colour if any of these danger signs appear - burning, itching, swelling, eruptions, irritation, redness or any other abnormal reaction. If these signs appear in or around the test area, at any time during the test period, it indicates the person is allergic or hypersensitive and colour must not be applied. In addition, this product should not be applied if the scalp shows evidence of cuts, abrasions, eruptions, open wounds or any other abnormal condition.
Formulation of your Headpaint Colour:
To formulate with accuracy, you must first assess the following:
1. Determine the client's natural base level by matching it to the Natural Series swatches from the Fudge Headpaint Colour Chart.
2. Determine the desired level you wish to achieve.
3. Determine the desired tone of colour you wish to achieve.
4. Determine how many levels of lift are required to achieve your target shade. This will determine what strength of Fudge Catalyst needs to be used (see chart below).
5. If you are lightening and a cool result is desired, you will need to take underlying pigment into consideration as warmth may need to be neutralized. This can be achieved by referring to a colour wheel.
NOTE: Remember opposite colours on the colour wheel neutralize and control unwanted tone.
Fudge Catalyst Peroxides:
• Demi-Permanent Colour: 20 minutes
• Level on Level or Darkening: 20-30 minutes
• Lifting 1-2 Levels or Covering White Hair: 40-45 minutes
• Lifting 3 Levels: 45 minutes
• Lifting 4 Levels: 45-60 minutes
When toning bleached or porous hair, colour should be continually checked during process until desired result is achieved, usually between 2-20 minutes.
NOTE: Heat is NOT recommended with Fudge Headpaint Colours.
• Fudge Headpaint 60ml (2.03oz) tubes should be mixed on a 1 part crème to 1-1/2 parts Fudge Catalyst Ratio
Example - 30ml (1/2 tube) Fudge Headpaint Colour Crème + 45ml Fudge Catalyst
• Fudge Headpaint Mega Lift colours should be mixed on a 1 part crème colour to 2 parts Fudge Catalyst ration with either 30 vol or 40 vol Fudge Catalyst. (For maximum lift, 40 vol is suggested).
Example - 30ml (1/2 tube) Fudge Headpaint Mega Lift Colour Crème + 60ml (2.03oz) Fudge Catalyst
NOTE: To obtain best results, Fudge Head Paint must be mixed with Fudge Catalyst. Fudge does not guarantee results when mixed with other brands of peroxide.
Application Points To Remember:
1. Do not shampoo hair immediately prior to application of Fudge Headpaint unless the hair has product build-up.
2. Always apply to dry hair.
3. Wear protective gloves.
4. Ensure clients clothing is well protected.
5. Commence application at the darkest area of the hair.
6. Ensure hair is evenly covered with the mixture.
7. Do NOT develop Fudge Headpaint using heat.
8. Apply product immediately after mixing.
9. Do not apply to scalp with open cuts, abrasions or other abnormal conditions. Refer to inside of carton.
A virgin application is carried out on hair that has not been previously processed by any chemical service.
Virgin Applications using the same level or darker:
1. On hair of even porosity: If you are using the same shade as the natural base level or are going darker, you can apply your Fudge Headpaint mixture straight through from roots to ends.
2. On hair with porous areas: Apply Fudge Headpaint mixture to roots and mid-lengths, leaving out porous areas. Process for approximately 20 minutes then apply remainder of mixture on porous areas. Process for a further 10 minutes.
Virgin Applications using lighter or warmer shades (including Mega Lift Series):
Always apply your Fudge Headpaint colour mixture 1cm (1/2 inch) away from scalp. This will avoid warmth from the scalp creating a heat band.
1. On hair of even porosity: Apply Fudge Headpaint mixture to mid lengths and ends, starting application 1cm (1/2 inch) from the scalp. Commence application at the darkest area. Leave for approximately 15 minutes or until a definite colour change can be seen. Prepare a new batch of Fudge Headpaint mixture and apply to the root area, then reapply over mid-lengths and ends. Leave for a further 35 minutes.
2. On hair with porous areas: Apply Fudge Headpaint mixture to mid lengths leaving porous areas free from colour. Start application 1cm (1/2 inch) from scalp. Process for approximately 15 minutes or until a definite colour change can be seen. Apply Fudge One Shot to porous areas. Prepare a new batch of Fudge Headpaint mixture and apply to the root area, then reapply over mid-lengths and ends. Process for a further 35 minutes.
1. Apply chosen Fudge Headpaint mixture to regrowth area only and leave on for approximately 30 minutes. Take remaining colour through to ends and process for a further 10 minutes.
NOTE: If target colour is a fashion shade, a new mixture should be prepared using 10 vol Fudge Catalyst. This will ensure vibrant fashion results.
2. On hair with porous mid-lengths/ends: Apply chosen Fudge Headpaint mixture to regrowth area only and leave to process for approximately 30 minutes. Dampen mid lengths and ends with Fudge One Shot, mix a new batch of colour using the same shade with Fudge Catalyst NO LIFT. Alternatively prepare a Fudge Headpaint 2 Pac formulation, apply and process for a further 10 minutes.
Example using Fudge Catalyst NO Lift - 30 ml (1/2 tube) Fudge Headpaint Colour Crème + 45ml (1.52oz) Fudge Catalyst NO Lift
Example using Fudge Headpaint 2 Pac - 30ml (1/2 tube) Fudge Headpaint Colour Crème+ 30ml (1.01oz) 10 volume Fudge Catalyst + 30ml (1.01oz) distilled water
Fudge Headpaint Toners are designed to be used to create pastel tones on previously lightened hair and to aid in the neutralization of unwanted warm tones on levels 8 and above.
Fudge Headpaint Toners should be mixed with 10 volume Fudge Catalyst on a 1 to 1-1/2 ratio.
Example - 30ml (1/2 tube) 90.01 Fudge Headpaint Toner + 45ml (1.52oz) 10 volume Fudge Catalyst
Apply Fudge One Shot through the hair. Start your colour application on the least porous areas of the hair and progress to the most porous, each application of Toner will differ in development time, depending on the porosity of the hair, therefore, it is essential that you check your colour development every 2-3 minutes. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR CLIENT UNATTENDED. Remove as normal.
Coverage of White Hair:
If there is less than 40% white hair, then use the desired Fudge Headpaint colour on its own.
If there is more than 40% white hair, then you must add a neutral shade of the same level as your chosen colour.
Example - Natural base is a level 6 with 50% white hair. Desired shade is 7.34. Mixture = 15ml (1/4 tube) 7.34 + 15ml (1/4 tube) 7 (Medium Blonde) + 45ml (1.52oz) 20 volume Fudge Catalyst.
All strengths of Fudge Catalyst when mixed with Fudge Headpaint Crème have the ability to cover white hair. Therefore, it is possible using 40 volume Fudge Catalyst, to lift natural hair by 4 levels and cover white at the same time.
Example - Natural base is 5 with 50% white hair. Desired shade is 9.3. Mixture = 15ml (1/4 tube) 9.3 + 15ml (1/4 tube) 9 (Very Light Blonde) + 45ml (1.52oz) 40 volume Fudge Catalyst.
Formulation for Coverage of Resistant Hair
For maximum coverage on RESISTANT WHITE HAIR use your chosen colour and mix Fudge Catalyst on a 1 to 1 ratio.
Example - Natural base is 6 with 75% resistant white hair. Desired shade is 8.45. Mixture = 15ml (1/4 tube) 8.45 + 15ml (1/4 tube) 8 (Light Blonde) + 30ml (1.01oz) of 20 volume Fudge Catalyst.
• 10 volume Fudge Catalyst is used for 100% White coverage
• 20 volume Fudge Catalyst is used for white coverage when 1-2 levels of lift is required on the remaining natural hair
• 30 volume Fudge Catalyst is used for white coverage when 3 levels of lift is required on the remaining natural hair
• 40 volume Fudge Catalyst is used for white coverage when 4 levels of lift is required on the remaining natural hair
1. When processing time is complete, dampen fingertips with water and emulsify around the hairline to lift tint from the skin and prevent staining.
2. Add a little water to the hair and emulsify thoroughly to activate the rinsing properties of Fudge Headpaint Crème, rinse thoroughly.
3. Shampoo using Fudge Wet Hed Shampoo.
4. Rinse and towel dry.
5. Condition using Fudge Wet Hed Conditioner. Leave for 3-5 minutes and rinse.
6. Towel dry and lock in the colour using Fudge One Shot.
7. Style using your favourite Fudge styling products.
1. Advise your client to avoid shampooing their hair for 24-48 hours following the completion of their colour service.
2. We recommend the use of Fudge Wet Hed Shampoo to gently cleanse the hair.
3. Follow with Fudge Wet Hed Conditioner to help maintain hairs condition and colour vibrancy.
4. To help keep hair strong and healthy, we recommend the use of Fudge Dynamite as a weekly reconstructor.
5. To help prevent colour fade, we recommend the use of Fudge One Shot+ Daily Leave-In Reconstructor.